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Planning & Practicalities
Opening hours, public holidays, and the rhythm of the Bavarian year. Bavaria has more public holidays than any other German state, and shops close on every one of them.

This is the section that stops a week going wrong. Two rules govern most of it.
Shops close on Sundays. German law keeps retail shut on Sundays and public holidays, with narrow exceptions for stations, airports and petrol stations. There is no equivalent of a Sunday supermarket run; you plan around it or you go without.

Bavaria has more public holidays than any other German state, and several are Catholic feast days that fall midweek and close everything a Sunday would. Two of them are regional enough that they apply in some Bavarian towns and not others.
The year has a shape too: the city empties in August, fills violently for the two weeks of Oktoberfest in late September, and turns over to Christmas markets from late November.
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